October Arrivals - FRANCE / GERMANY

More goodies are arriving from France, as always it is a very exciting group. There is also a new and exciting German estate!

DOMAINE DES GRAVES D'ARDONNEAU
I am always happy to get wines this good back in stock. Looking for "2005 Bordeaux"? We've got a "sleeper of the vintage" right here, ridiculously priced in your favor. You need "name" Châteaux to beat this, of course you will pay double or more for those.

2006 PREMIERES COTES DE BLAYE BLANC "PRESTIGE"
2005 PREMIERES COTES DE BLAYE ROUGE "PRESTIGE"
2005 PREMIERES COTES DE BLAYE ROUGE "PRESTIGE" MAGNUMS

DOMAINE MATIGNON
Fans of this Domaine will be happy to get their mitts on these wines - those out of the loop will find themselves easily convinced. In addition to an award-winning Anjou rouge and possibly the best Coteaux du Layon for the money, we are pleased to introduce Matignon's superb Saumur Brut for those of you interested in a superb, esoteric sparkler of Chenin and Chardonnay.

2006 ANJOU ROUGE
2007 COTEAUX DU LAYON
NV SAUMUR BRUT

DOMAINE LA ROULETIERE
Superb and complex example of dry Vouvray at a laughable price.

2005 VOUVRAY SEC

DOMAINE DES FORGES
More excellent Anjou Blanc, and a couple of firsts - An award-winning Anjou Rouge and a SUBLIME Coteaux du Layon Saint-Aubin SGN, that is CRAZY good. Don't waste it on dessert - drink it all by itself.

2006 ANJOU BLANC
2007 ANJOU ROUGE
2001 COTEAUX DU LAYON SAINT-AUBIN "SGN" 500ML

CHRISTOPHE COURTINAT
I was not indifferent to the sample of white from Mr. Courtinat; in fact the bottle practically drank itself. An intriguing blend of chardonnay and the obscure, local varietal tressallier which gives extra minerality and zip. All wine, no wood.

2006 SAINT-POURCAIN BLANC

DOMAINE POUPAT
Coteaux du Giennois is an obscure AOC in the 'deep south' of the centre Loire region. An intriguing blend of 3/4 gamay and 1/4 pinot noir with major minerality and serious geek factor. I live to import wines like this - some of you will like it - a lot.

2006 COTEAUX DU GIENNOIS ROUGE "LE TROCADERO"

DOMAINE LAPANDERY
A wonderful assortment of wines young and old from Francisque Lapandéry. The antitdote to the syrupy overblown creature wines of today. 12% alcohol, exquisite balance. See our earlier post for more ample information.

2005 COTE ROANNAISE "LA ROUSELLIERE"
2006 VDP D'URFE ROUGE "PINOT NOIR"

MAGNUMS:
2005 COTE ROANNAISE "LA ROUSELLIERE"
2003 COTE ROANNAISE "LA ROUSELLIERE"
2000 COTE ROANNAISE "LA ROUSELLIERE"
1999 COTE ROANNAISE "LA ROUSELLIERE"
1997 COTE ROANNAISE "LA ROUSELLIERE"

DOMAINE VIRELY-ROUGEOT

The last of the 2005s from this superb domaine. Prices are up a touch from the previous absurd levels, but still represent Excellent value.

2005 BOURGOGNE ROUGE
2005 POMMARD 1ER CRU "CLOS DES ARVELETS"
2005 POMMARD 1ER CRU "LES CHANLINS

DOMAINE ERELL NINOT

Erell Ninot is one of the many 20-something French winemakers who are blowing minds worldwide. A name to watch until the prices catch up.

2005 MERCUREY ROUGE "VV"
2005 MERCUREY ROUGE 1ER CRU "LES CRETS"

OTTO GOERGEN
Here is something new for Millesime - German wine. I was real hesitant about doing anything with German wine, but Weingut Görgen was too good to pass up. Again here is a case of a 20-something winemaker, Matthias Görgen who thanks to global warming has been making superb wines in the heretofore unsung Mittelmosel. The prices are ridiculous on this group of Rieslings - enjoy!

2007 BEILSTEINER SCHLOSSBERG RIESLING HOCHGEWAECHS QUALITAETSWEIN TROCKEN
2007 BEILSTEINER SILBERBERG RIESLING SPAETLESE FEINHERB
2007 BRIEDERNER RUEBERBERGER DOMHERRENBERG RIESLING SPAETLESE
2007 BRIEDERNER RUEBERBERGER DOMHERRENBERG RIESLING AUSLESE
2006 BRIEDERNER RUEBERBERGER DOMHERRENBERG RIESLING AUSLESE "LANGKAPSEL" 500ML

Domaine RIGOT

As I mentioned in an earlier post, I was sceptical about this domaine. I do a lot of Rhones and I asked myself, "do I really need another expensive Cotes du Rhone?" That they had no Village wines was also not exactly a point in their favor (they now have one Village wine - a Plan de Dieu). After tasting the 2004 CDR "Prestige des Garrigues" (a coup de coeur in Hachette), I realized that it made more sense to view this wine as a cheap (and GOOD) Chateauneuf rather than an expensive CDR. Seriously, you could really embarass some people by bringing a Prestige des Garrigues to a brown bag Chateauneuf tasting

The domaine is located halfway between Chateauneuf and Gigondas on what must be some of the best non-village land available. An excellent VDP rouge is produced, a veritable Cotes du Rhone-alike that is way better than its humble price would suggest - we have it available in 750ml bottles and 5 litre BIBs.

Speaking of BIBs, we have also Rigot's midrange CDR, the cuvee Jean-Baptiste in 5L BIB. Millesime was and is a real pioneer in Seattle in offering quality BIBs from France and Spain, and Rigot's are easily the best available in this market. Whenever I pour a glass for someone at a tasting, the response is generally "wow" followed by "I can't believe it's a box."

While these wines are great, the one truly of note is the flagship of the domaine, the Prestige des Garrigues. 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah, it resembles a CDP in more ways than just the blend. The superb 2005 is available in 750ml bottles, and we have a few older vintages available in large formats - I'm not just talking about mags here, but also jeroboams and even imperiales!

July arrivals - FRANCE

It wasn't pretty, but I was able to book passage for 2 more containers worth of French wines, which will arrive in Seattle mid-Julyish. Better late than never!

LOIRE:

CAVE DE SAUMUR
2006 Saumur Blanc Sec "Reserve des Vignerons" - this is the last batch of the 2006 which is a rather lovely and classic example.
2007 Cabernet de Saumur Rosé "Reserve des Vignerons" - "Cabernet" rosés are the dryest examples in Anjou- the Cabernet is of course the Franc.
2006 Saumur Rouge "Reserve des Vignerons" - Even coming after the opulent 2005, the 2006 is no disappointment, good color and plenty of fruit.

CLOS CHATEAU GAILLARD - Biodynamic "demeter" since 1992 - way before it was 'cool'.
N/V Touraine Sparkling white "Charlette Voyant" - Chenin and Chardonnay create a superb sparkler at this price range.
N/V Touraine Gamay - in litre bottles, this 'multivintage' cuvee is meant to be a nonpretentious biodynamic foodstuff at your table with friends.
2006 Touraine Sauvignon Blanc - I had more positive response on this wine, it really redefined what Touraine Sauvignon could mean for a lot of people.
2007 Touraine-Mesland Blanc - a unique blend of 70% Chenin and 30% Chardonnay
2007 Touraine-Mesland Rosé - 100% gamay and oh, so juicy!
2006 Touraine Mesland Rouge - Gamay, Cabernet Franc and Malbec combine to offer excellent fruit, structure and value.

CLOS SAINT FIACRE
2006 Orléans-Cléry Rouge (90% Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon *** Coup de Coeur Guide Hachette. This is serious wine-geek wine.

LANGUEDOC

VIGNERONS DE CASCASTEL
-Here is a great source for excellent Corbieres at prices that remain ridiculously low.
2007 Corbières Blanc "Jean de Cascastel" - 85% Macabeu 15% Grenache Blanc
2007 Corbières Rosé "Jean de Cascastel" - 65% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 10% Cinsault
2005 Corbières Rouge "Jean de Cascastel" - 45% Grenache, 45% Carignan, 10% Syrah

DOMAINE DE LA REYNARDIERE - I dealt with these guys back in the 90s and this just proves that in some cases, the 'old' ways are indeed best - or at least the best deal! I tasted these wines at Vinisud with one of Seattle's major buyers and we had to do a double take when Monsieur Megé told us the prices...
2007 VDP Coteaux de Murviel Rosé Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, this is possibly the best rosé I have EVER seen at this price.
2006 VDP Coteaux de Murviel Rouge
TBC - 65% Merlot, 35% Carignan - delightfully uncomplicated easy drinker.

RHONE

DOMAINE RIGOT - returned from a long absence, Rigot's CDP-esque CDRs really deliver the goods.
2007 VDP Principauté d'Orange Rouge - Everybody's favorite Cotes du Rhone alike is available both in 750ml and 5L BIBs!
2006 Cotes du Rhone Rouge "Jean-Baptiste Rigot" 5L BIB
2005 Cotes du Rhone Rouge "Prestige des Garrigues"
2007 Grenache Grape Juice

DOMAINE MARTIN - multiple gold medals yearly from Eric Martin!
2007 VDP Vaucluse Rouge
2005 Côtes du Rhône Villages Rouge Plan de Dieu
2005 Côtes du Rhône Villages Rouge Cairanne
2006 Côtes du Rhône Villages Rouge Rasteau

DOMAINE LA ROCALIERE Severine Lemoine is a talented young (<30) winemaker who has taken dad's journeyman style to a new level of elegance
2007 Lirac Blanc
2007 Tavel
2005 Lirac Rouge

NEW Arrivals - "June"

I put quotes around "June" because we are once again victims to the labor union commies in France. Longshoremen in all French ports have been on strike since late April. This container is being forced to leave from a non-French port, and the closest available port while containers pile up even in Antwerp is Rotterdam. Vessels from R'dam only go as far as Oakland on the west coast, and this container could very well spend a couple of weeks there, waiting for its transport to be "arranged." While workers in America can only dream of the cradle to grave benefits and union power enjoyed by their French counterparts, we will have to content ourselves with supplying another group of superb French wines for the thirsty masses!


ETIENNE BOILEAU
I met Etienne Boileau in February and we tasted a number of incredible wines. Here is what's coming:
2007 Chablis
2006 Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons
2006 Chablis 1er Cru Montmains
2006 Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu
2006 Chablis Grand Cru Bougros

CLAUDE NOUVEAU
2005 Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune Rouge
Santenay Rouge "Les Charmes Dessus"
Santenay Rouge 1er Cru "Grand Clos Rousseau"

CH. PEYBONHOMME DES TOURS
2005 Premières Côtes de Blaye Rouge "Classique" ECOCERT

CH. LE GROLET
2005 Côtes de Bourg "Classique" Biodynamic "Demeter"

CLOS DADY
For the same price as negoce swill, the Tour delivers! The Dady is really the real deal.
2006 Sauternes, Ch. La Tour des Remparts 375ml
2006 Sauternes, Clos Dady 375ml

DOMAINE DE MENARD
Bold, intense Gascon white has it all going on - at 11.5% alcohol!
2007 VDP Gascogne Blanc Colombard/Sauvignon Blanc

CH. LES BERTRANDS
2005 Premières Côtes de Blaye Rouge "Tradition"
2005 Premières Côtes de Blaye Rouge "Prestige"

DOMAINE DE MONTINE
2007 Coteaux du Tricastin Blanc "Gourmandise"
2007 Coteaux du Tricastin Rose "Gourmandise"
2006 Coteaux du Tricastin Rouge "Gourmandise"
2006 Coteaux du Tricastin Rouge "Séduction"

DOMAINE LA FOURMENTE
2007 CDRV Visan Blanc
2006 CDRV Visan Rouge "Grand Gibard"
Essence Lavandin 50ml

COSTIERES ET SOLEIL
2007 Costières de Nîmes Blanc, Domaine du Prince
2006 Costières de Nîmes Rouge, Domaine du Prince

TBC

Paul Lapandéry et Fils

UPDATE: On a whim I opened a mag of 1980 that was a slight leaker (probably due to a high fill as it was very high in the neck) and it was absolutely drop-dead gorgeous. I actually preferred it to the the 1990 that we tried here earlier! Show me any gamay based wine, or even a Burgundy from this admittedly awful vintage that has aged as gracefully, as effortlessly as this and I will eat my hat! WOW!!!


There was a trade tasting here at MILLESIME last Monday and one of the highlights in terms of quality, rarity, eccentricy, etc. were 2 wines from Domaine Paul Lapandéry. My experience with this domaine goes back to the early nineties when I met them at the Salon de l'agriculture de Paris to pick up some homemade saucissons they had under the counter for my boss. I had tasted current vintages in bottle but at the Salon was privileged to taste several vintages from the 70s from magnum and was simply amazed by the exquisite longevity achieved by these medium bodied high toned wines, all with a whopping 12% alcohol!

A lowly AOVDQS then, Paul Lapandéry was the driving force behind AOC status for Côte Roannaise. The wine, known as "La Rousselière" was then a blend of about 90% Gamay and 10% Pinot Noir. His ungrateful neighbors possessed no Pinot vines, let alone venerable ones like Lapandéry, and proceeded to conspire with the INAO to get them to declare the AOC Côte Roannaise to be 100% Gamay. He lobbied also unsuccessfully to have his "La Rousselière" classified as an AOC unto itself like Chateau Grillet, as the situation of the vineyard and the granitic terroir were themselves unique, but to no avail. Lapandéry was forced to either declassify to "Vin de Table" or discontinue the blending, calling the Gamay AOC Côte Roannaise, and the Pinot Noir Vin de Pays d'Urfé... When Paul died soon after, his son Francisque took over the domaine and in spite of his education at the Lycée Viticole de Beaune, has chosen to use the same ancestral methods, with superb results in the bottle. The geographic situation of the vineyard protects it naturally from fogs and all manner of extreme weather. Rot and mildew are therefore unknown and no treatments are necessary. Everything has to be done entirely by hand due to the vineyard's steepness (72 degrees in places) as well as the fact the the family uses the spaces between the vines for all manner of food crops for their consumption! As an additional particularity, the wines have always been destemmed. The wines are vinified in concrete and aged in venerable old barrels for 12-18 months and they really, truly and uncannily improve in bottle.

The happy ending to this sad tale is that the truth of the matter is that the ancient granite Gamay was always the secret to the character and longevity of this wine and not the Pinot Noir anyway! Don't get me wrong, the monocépage Pinot Noir is really a superb and complete example, at a price that really is a joke give the state of the $. The 2005 Gamay displays the same 'kirschy' fruit and finesse as the wines from the 70s! 'Purists' or nostalgists such as myself were delighted to see the continuity of the 2005 and the 1990 from magnum that we tasted on Monday. More than simply 'alive' after 18 years, the 1990 was easily the most interesting wine of the tasting... In a world of rotofermented flash-cooked brutally tannic "creature wines", these 12% alcohol examples of exquisite finesse and effortless longevity are indeed an antidote. While supplies last, we have the following wines available:

750ML:
2005 Côte Roannaise "La Rousselière"
2005 VDP d'Urfé Pinot Noir

MAGNUM:
2005 Côte Roannaise "La Rousselière"
1998 Côte Roannaise "La Rousselière"
1996 Côte Roannaise AOVDQS "La Rousselière"
1990 Côte Roannaise AOVDQS "La Rousselière"
1980 Côte Roannaise AOVDQS "La Rousselière"

Vinisud

Vinisud was awesome this year - tons of spectacular wineries all looking for distribution and a real look at the class system: Here is Chapoutier's 'booth':


more flash:


and the here's sonebody's bright (and expensive) idea for marketing to the anglo-saxons:
Just thinking of the paycheck somebody received for this effort is beyond galling. Somebody should remind these fools that the only chance they have is to create something authentic, not a contrived travesty such as this. the good news is that just past this atrocity to the left was the group "Vins Femmes Rhône" where wines of a very different sort were offered to the world's buyers.

The good news really is that beyond all the glitz, there are lots of producers making authentic, superb wines and MILLESIME has ordered a number of them - coming soon!

Overblown, overdone!

Just got back from a week and a half in France, spent bludgeoning my palate so that you hopefully won't have to. No, my teeth don't usually look like that! Somebody needs to do a study on this, but I think excessive consumption of over-extracted, excessively tannic wines is probably not that great for the health - really 'too much of a good thing'. When you are tasting 100s of these things every day, there are some strange side effects that are worth noting. The first few do a good job of stripping the protective mucus from the tissues, the subsequent dozens are absorbed all the more. The cocktail of chemical compounds plus the OD of tannins leaves one not drunk, but rather "toxed" and it makes it hard to get to sleep.
ICK!

TBC

January Arrivals

Our latest container from France arrived at our warehouse yesterday, and there are all kinds of goodies for amateurs