Alicante wines are coming to PCC

This is a delightful range of affordable wines from Alicante, situated between Valencia and Cartagena on the Mediterrannean coast of Spain. They will be available at your local PCC store by the end of September.

Loire Tasting

The Loire tasting yesterday was well-attended, not as much as last year's. I had 31 'unique visits'. Lots of enthusiasts but few buyers. A huge percentage of attendees were from Portland and it seems to me this event would be a lot more successful were it to be held in Portland instead of Seattle.

Loire Valley Wine Tasting is just days away!

This coming Monday 9/13 is the Loire Valley Wine Bureau tasting at the Palace Ballroom in Seattle. If you are looking for the most decadent sweet Chenins, look no further than my table! Coteaux du Layon, Layon Chaume, Layon St-Aubin, Quarts de Chaume, Bonnezeaux... Whether you are a connoisseur or an amateur, an incredible experience is assured.

NEW ARRIVALS - FRANCE

New and exciting wines From AOC Costières de Nîmes are on their way to Millésime. Of the many cooperatives in the region, The Cave de Générac produces outstanding quality for the money, and I've been proud to represent them since 2003. The prices have gone up somewhat over the years but these wines are still cheap for what they are - very solid Southern Rhone style wines. They are scheduled to arrive in Seattle the first week of August, 2010. Bargains that they are, these will go fast so please feel free to reserve some today!

DOMAINE DU PRINCE


2008 Costières de Nîmes Blanc
A blend of Grenache Blanc and Clairette, it has nice floral notes with some beeswax, rich with good acidity. Awesome shellfish wine.

2009 Costières de Nîmes Rosé
A blend of 75% syrah and 25% grenache. Fairly deep color for this somewhat muscular rosé, bone dry with gobs of fruit.

2006 Costières de Nîmes Rouge
A blend of 75% syrah and 25% grenache. Inky purple color, dense dark fruits with chocolatey notes. Very smooth tannins.

September Arrivals

It's been a while, but we finally have some new wines coming in From France. Some old favorites as always, and a number of new and exciting wines never before seen on our shores. The can should be delivered to our warehouse sometime in the 1st week of September. Recession busting at its finest.

LOIRE

CAVE DE SAUMUR


The Cave de Saumur is reknowned for quality, regularity, and value. The latest vintages are some of the best that we've brought in. 2008 is a quasi-perfect vintage in all colors. I prefer it to 2005 because I think the ripeness is in better balance with the rest of the wine's attributes. One of the best white Saumurs I've seen at a small fraction of the high-end's price. 2007 produced juicy well-colored reds with friendly tannins for immediate to mid-term enjoyment.

2008 SAUMUR BLANC "RESERVE DES VIGNERONS"
Ripe, juicy, melony, citrusy flowery goodness!

2007 SAUMUR ROUGE "RESERVE DES VIGNERONS"
Deeply purple, with gobs of dark fruit. Excellent acid and warm, friendly tannins.

2007 SAUMUR-CHAMPIGNY "LES POYEUX"
Deeply purple, layers of dark fruits and dusty spices. A very consistent performer over the years.

DOMAINE DE LA ROCHETTE


François Leclair has proven to be an excellent source for a wide range of wines from TOURAINE that are exceptional bargains. Quality is always good, but in vintages like 2008 it approaches superb for a risible price.

2008 TOURAINE SAUVIGNON BLANC
Very pale, nice aromatic intensity, good weight and plenty of zip.
2008 TOURAINE PINEAU D'AUNIS
Gorgeous, electric gris color. Explosive nose, perfect texture. Exuberant, yet very sophisticated rosé. Que demande le peuple?
2008 TOURAINE PINOT NOIR
Surprisingly deep color. Excellent fruity, spicy and earthy nose. Firm friendly tannins with good zip.
2007 TOURAINE PRESTIGE DU VIGNERON" (Cabernet Franc/Côt)
Very deep opaque purple, with a medley of red and dark fruits with spice.

DOMAINE SEBASTIEN RIFFAULT


Something about me wants to hate these wines, and I would if they weren't so completely seductive. I was for some reason naturally hostile and skeptical to the concept of strictly non-interventionist 'natural winemaking' where the wine is literally allowed to make it itself. I was basically dared to taste them by a colleague in France and found my prejudices and preconceptions swept away by the extremely seductive character of these wines, which overwhelms even their strangeness. You won't need to leave your points of reference at the door, they'll be rendered meaningless all by themselves. To me these wines are revelatory. The wines all contain some solids. Don't be afraid of them, they are just part of the deal.

2007 SANCERRE BLANC "AKMENINE"
The name means "Made of Stones" in Lithuanian. 6-9 months in very old (10+) Burgundy barrels. Very bright yellow color. Bonbon anglais, nutty, lightly oxidized. Voluminous, sumptuous and exotic. Incredible length.

2007 SANCERRE BLANC "AUKSINIS"
The name means 'Golden', and that's a fair assessment of the color. 18 months in very old casks. Oxidized, candied nose. Mature, candied fruits. See above x 1.5

2007 SANCERRE BLANC "SKEVELDRA"
The name means "Fragment", and refers to the flinty soils that produce the fruit. About a year in old casks. Bright yellow with a vivid orange-ish edge. Quasi Sherry-like nose. Flavors are quite complex and pretty bizarre but most importantly absolutely and irresistibly delicious. The wine gives so much pleasure that you don't want to swallow it, you just want it to live in your mouth! One usually has to pay a lot more than this for that attribute...

2007 SANCERRE ROUGE "RAUDONAS"
The name means "Red". 18 months in old casks. Deep bricky color. Very ripe, candied, stewed fruit. Tiny prickles, bracing acids. Good volume, if bizarre.


LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON

LES COTEAUX DU RIEUTORT


A fairly recent cooperative, founded in 1996. 1250ha of vines are worked by 250 vignerons, providing a rich and varied palette of material going into the wines. From textbook VDPs to Millésime's first Saint-Chinian wine, I am very pleased to have discovered this source.

2008 VDP D'OC "LES GRANJOTS" VIOGNIER
Pale color, this is a really attactive, textbook stainless steel Viognier. Rich and intense with plenty of interest.

2008 VDP D'OC "LES GRANJOTS" GRENACHE ROSE
Delicate salmony color. Explosive fruit, bone dry.

2007 SAINT-CHINIAN ROUGE "LES SCHISTES"
Syrah, Grenache, Carignan. Carbonic for the Syrah. Deep and brilliant, this wine is explosive, intense, lush, silky and way underpriced. Best QPR red out of literally hundreds I tasted in France several months ago.


CHATEAU PLANERES



2007 COTES DU ROUSSILLON BLANC "PRESTIGE"
Tourbat/Rolle/Grenache Blanc. Tourbat is also known as 'Roussillon Malvasia' and was once widely planted in the area. Nowadays it is very very rare. It is a very noble, but late maturing and low-yielding varietal. Gilles Jaubert is a big believer in this grape, which he reintroduced at the the domaine in 1980. A revelation in 'southern whites'

2007 COTES DU ROUSSILLON ROSE "PRESTIGE"
Syrah/Cinsault/Grenache. Dark, meaty, 'structured' rosé that stands up to most foods.

2006 COTES DU ROUSSILLON ROUGE "CHANTAIL" 1L
Syrah/Grenache/Carignan. The Syrah and Carignan are vinified by carbonic maceration. Dark, soft, and juicy but with a decent tannic backbone. It is a great BBQ and paella red.

2006 COTES DU ROUSSILLON ROUGE "PRESTIGE"
Syrah/Mourvedre/Grenache. Deep and brilliant garnet with brambly, plummy and chocolatey fruit. Superb QPR.

2006 COTES DU ROUSSILLON LES ASPRES ROUGE "LA COUME D'ARS"
50% 100 year old Carignan, 30% 45 yo Grenache & Syrah. - This single-vineyard wine is earthy, juicy, big and powerful with attractive dark fruit background and firm tannins. Way undervalued, brownbag this to your next tasting group and blow some minds.

Back from FENAVIN

Made it back from FENAVIN - the traveling was gruesome, but the show was great. I found lots of really great wines - more than I can possibly take, which is a good problem to have. As expected, plenty of really great deals. A pleasant surprise was the restraint of many of the wines, I was subjected to very few of the brutally furry examples that are alas all-too-common these days in France (but I'm sure they were there). The show was just about the perfect size, you really didn't need to plan a route through the pavillions, everything was close enough not to sweat it, unlike at the big international 'monster shows' the scale, at 'only' 1000 exhibitors is rather more human than 2500 like at Vinexpo or Vinitaly, or (gasp) 3200 at Prowein. Lots of really excellent, well-balanced wines, even from some of the more 'desirable' DOs like Ribera del Duero, Toro, Priorat...

Everything was represented, from the most garish sickness imaginable: This picture doesn't really do the 'sickness' justice. Avril Lavigne on the video screens is a hint, but there were also painted bimbo 'hostesses' - all in an effort to flog 'wines' in tallboy aluminum cans.

Other booths were much classier, appointed in 'rich Corinthian leather' : In comparison to the disco cans, very classy and understated.

Here is the self-service tasting area, upstairs in the largest hall: yes, it really is as far as the eye can see! The only drawback was that if you didn't go first thing in the morning it started to get pretty warm up there, which didn't exactly help a lot of the reds to show their best. 'Room temperature' is indeed a relative term.

Wretched excess: Thousands and thousands of glasses were soiled daily.

And finally, there were facilities for those who had a bit too much: It looked like they had enough gear in there to handle all but the most serious of cases. Made it convenient to get back to the show after coming to!

FENAVIN

FENAVIN stands for FEria NAcional del VINo which is the largest trade show in Spain - over 1000 exhibitors from all over the country will be showing their wines. I've always been a big believer in Spanish wines and I think they are probably best values in the business, Euro for Euro. This is an exciting event for me because it is the first time that I will be exposed to so many different Spanish wines - I should be plowing through 100+ per day in my quest to find new and exciting wines to bring in. It will be interesting to discover producers who are making authentic wines of character, hopefully I won't have to suffer through too many examples of the overblown and overdone ones that are sadly very fashionable these days...

TBC

"Corkscrewed" book signing

Tuesday the 17th of February there was a book signing/tasting at the Local Vine in Belltown with Robert Camuto, author of "Corkscrewed". We had a couple of suppliers featured in the book, which I would recommend to winos everywhere even if none of 'my' suppliers were in it. Turnout was strong and I'm happy to say that the wines were very well received. Most of these wines are still in stock if anyone is interested:

2006 Côtes du Roussillon Rouge "Tradition", Ch. Mossé
2005 Côtes du Roussillon Rouge "Temporis", Ch. Mossé
2004 Côte-Rôtie, J-M Stephan
2004 Côte-Rôtie "Vielles Vignes en Côteaux", J-M Stephan

Languedoc/Loire

I spent a couple of weeks in France recently, where I attended a number of Trade Shows as well as some grueling tastings set up by the CIVL (Conseil Interprofessionel des Vins du Languedoc). The first week was spent in and around Montpellier and I tasted 120-150 wines per day from AOCs from all over the region: Corbières, Saint-Chinian, Côteaux du Languedoc Grès de Montpellier, Pezenas, Béziers, Picpoul. It would not be an exaggeration to say that it was a 'costly' education in terms of wear and tear on my body - just be happy that there are people who can do this for you! Sadly, a common thread was the familiar over-extracted, overblown, overwooded, ferociously tannic wines that are still considered fashionable in some circles. Here is a tasting table (one of 15) to give you an idea of the scope of some of these tastings:



It got to the point where in order to spare myself the abuse, I would quickly scan the pricelists to tell by the price which "Q-vay" I was going to skip - when there was a doubt, I would ask to taste only the 'non-boisé' wines. They were always much cheaper and almost always way more enjoyable.

After that week it was a pleasure to head up to Angers for the Salon des Vins de Loire, easily one of my favorite shows to attend. As a group, Loire wines are eminently more 'civilized' as was the mostly self-directed pace of tasting. Were there some highlights from the first week Absolutely yes, but the sheer number of brutally tannic overblown wines that one had to fight through to discover them was most daunting.

October Arrivals - FRANCE / GERMANY

More goodies are arriving from France, as always it is a very exciting group. There is also a new and exciting German estate!

DOMAINE DES GRAVES D'ARDONNEAU
I am always happy to get wines this good back in stock. Looking for "2005 Bordeaux"? We've got a "sleeper of the vintage" right here, ridiculously priced in your favor. You need "name" Châteaux to beat this, of course you will pay double or more for those.

2006 PREMIERES COTES DE BLAYE BLANC "PRESTIGE"
2005 PREMIERES COTES DE BLAYE ROUGE "PRESTIGE"
2005 PREMIERES COTES DE BLAYE ROUGE "PRESTIGE" MAGNUMS

DOMAINE MATIGNON
Fans of this Domaine will be happy to get their mitts on these wines - those out of the loop will find themselves easily convinced. In addition to an award-winning Anjou rouge and possibly the best Coteaux du Layon for the money, we are pleased to introduce Matignon's superb Saumur Brut for those of you interested in a superb, esoteric sparkler of Chenin and Chardonnay.

2006 ANJOU ROUGE
2007 COTEAUX DU LAYON
NV SAUMUR BRUT

DOMAINE LA ROULETIERE
Superb and complex example of dry Vouvray at a laughable price.

2005 VOUVRAY SEC

DOMAINE DES FORGES
More excellent Anjou Blanc, and a couple of firsts - An award-winning Anjou Rouge and a SUBLIME Coteaux du Layon Saint-Aubin SGN, that is CRAZY good. Don't waste it on dessert - drink it all by itself.

2006 ANJOU BLANC
2007 ANJOU ROUGE
2001 COTEAUX DU LAYON SAINT-AUBIN "SGN" 500ML

CHRISTOPHE COURTINAT
I was not indifferent to the sample of white from Mr. Courtinat; in fact the bottle practically drank itself. An intriguing blend of chardonnay and the obscure, local varietal tressallier which gives extra minerality and zip. All wine, no wood.

2006 SAINT-POURCAIN BLANC

DOMAINE POUPAT
Coteaux du Giennois is an obscure AOC in the 'deep south' of the centre Loire region. An intriguing blend of 3/4 gamay and 1/4 pinot noir with major minerality and serious geek factor. I live to import wines like this - some of you will like it - a lot.

2006 COTEAUX DU GIENNOIS ROUGE "LE TROCADERO"

DOMAINE LAPANDERY
A wonderful assortment of wines young and old from Francisque Lapandéry. The antitdote to the syrupy overblown creature wines of today. 12% alcohol, exquisite balance. See our earlier post for more ample information.

2005 COTE ROANNAISE "LA ROUSELLIERE"
2006 VDP D'URFE ROUGE "PINOT NOIR"

MAGNUMS:
2005 COTE ROANNAISE "LA ROUSELLIERE"
2003 COTE ROANNAISE "LA ROUSELLIERE"
2000 COTE ROANNAISE "LA ROUSELLIERE"
1999 COTE ROANNAISE "LA ROUSELLIERE"
1997 COTE ROANNAISE "LA ROUSELLIERE"

DOMAINE VIRELY-ROUGEOT

The last of the 2005s from this superb domaine. Prices are up a touch from the previous absurd levels, but still represent Excellent value.

2005 BOURGOGNE ROUGE
2005 POMMARD 1ER CRU "CLOS DES ARVELETS"
2005 POMMARD 1ER CRU "LES CHANLINS

DOMAINE ERELL NINOT

Erell Ninot is one of the many 20-something French winemakers who are blowing minds worldwide. A name to watch until the prices catch up.

2005 MERCUREY ROUGE "VV"
2005 MERCUREY ROUGE 1ER CRU "LES CRETS"

OTTO GOERGEN
Here is something new for Millesime - German wine. I was real hesitant about doing anything with German wine, but Weingut Görgen was too good to pass up. Again here is a case of a 20-something winemaker, Matthias Görgen who thanks to global warming has been making superb wines in the heretofore unsung Mittelmosel. The prices are ridiculous on this group of Rieslings - enjoy!

2007 BEILSTEINER SCHLOSSBERG RIESLING HOCHGEWAECHS QUALITAETSWEIN TROCKEN
2007 BEILSTEINER SILBERBERG RIESLING SPAETLESE FEINHERB
2007 BRIEDERNER RUEBERBERGER DOMHERRENBERG RIESLING SPAETLESE
2007 BRIEDERNER RUEBERBERGER DOMHERRENBERG RIESLING AUSLESE
2006 BRIEDERNER RUEBERBERGER DOMHERRENBERG RIESLING AUSLESE "LANGKAPSEL" 500ML

Domaine RIGOT

As I mentioned in an earlier post, I was sceptical about this domaine. I do a lot of Rhones and I asked myself, "do I really need another expensive Cotes du Rhone?" That they had no Village wines was also not exactly a point in their favor (they now have one Village wine - a Plan de Dieu). After tasting the 2004 CDR "Prestige des Garrigues" (a coup de coeur in Hachette), I realized that it made more sense to view this wine as a cheap (and GOOD) Chateauneuf rather than an expensive CDR. Seriously, you could really embarass some people by bringing a Prestige des Garrigues to a brown bag Chateauneuf tasting

The domaine is located halfway between Chateauneuf and Gigondas on what must be some of the best non-village land available. An excellent VDP rouge is produced, a veritable Cotes du Rhone-alike that is way better than its humble price would suggest - we have it available in 750ml bottles and 5 litre BIBs.

Speaking of BIBs, we have also Rigot's midrange CDR, the cuvee Jean-Baptiste in 5L BIB. Millesime was and is a real pioneer in Seattle in offering quality BIBs from France and Spain, and Rigot's are easily the best available in this market. Whenever I pour a glass for someone at a tasting, the response is generally "wow" followed by "I can't believe it's a box."

While these wines are great, the one truly of note is the flagship of the domaine, the Prestige des Garrigues. 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah, it resembles a CDP in more ways than just the blend. The superb 2005 is available in 750ml bottles, and we have a few older vintages available in large formats - I'm not just talking about mags here, but also jeroboams and even imperiales!

July arrivals - FRANCE

It wasn't pretty, but I was able to book passage for 2 more containers worth of French wines, which will arrive in Seattle mid-Julyish. Better late than never!

LOIRE:

CAVE DE SAUMUR
2006 Saumur Blanc Sec "Reserve des Vignerons" - this is the last batch of the 2006 which is a rather lovely and classic example.
2007 Cabernet de Saumur Rosé "Reserve des Vignerons" - "Cabernet" rosés are the dryest examples in Anjou- the Cabernet is of course the Franc.
2006 Saumur Rouge "Reserve des Vignerons" - Even coming after the opulent 2005, the 2006 is no disappointment, good color and plenty of fruit.

CLOS CHATEAU GAILLARD - Biodynamic "demeter" since 1992 - way before it was 'cool'.
N/V Touraine Sparkling white "Charlette Voyant" - Chenin and Chardonnay create a superb sparkler at this price range.
N/V Touraine Gamay - in litre bottles, this 'multivintage' cuvee is meant to be a nonpretentious biodynamic foodstuff at your table with friends.
2006 Touraine Sauvignon Blanc - I had more positive response on this wine, it really redefined what Touraine Sauvignon could mean for a lot of people.
2007 Touraine-Mesland Blanc - a unique blend of 70% Chenin and 30% Chardonnay
2007 Touraine-Mesland Rosé - 100% gamay and oh, so juicy!
2006 Touraine Mesland Rouge - Gamay, Cabernet Franc and Malbec combine to offer excellent fruit, structure and value.

CLOS SAINT FIACRE
2006 Orléans-Cléry Rouge (90% Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon *** Coup de Coeur Guide Hachette. This is serious wine-geek wine.

LANGUEDOC

VIGNERONS DE CASCASTEL
-Here is a great source for excellent Corbieres at prices that remain ridiculously low.
2007 Corbières Blanc "Jean de Cascastel" - 85% Macabeu 15% Grenache Blanc
2007 Corbières Rosé "Jean de Cascastel" - 65% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 10% Cinsault
2005 Corbières Rouge "Jean de Cascastel" - 45% Grenache, 45% Carignan, 10% Syrah

DOMAINE DE LA REYNARDIERE - I dealt with these guys back in the 90s and this just proves that in some cases, the 'old' ways are indeed best - or at least the best deal! I tasted these wines at Vinisud with one of Seattle's major buyers and we had to do a double take when Monsieur Megé told us the prices...
2007 VDP Coteaux de Murviel Rosé Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, this is possibly the best rosé I have EVER seen at this price.
2006 VDP Coteaux de Murviel Rouge
TBC - 65% Merlot, 35% Carignan - delightfully uncomplicated easy drinker.

RHONE

DOMAINE RIGOT - returned from a long absence, Rigot's CDP-esque CDRs really deliver the goods.
2007 VDP Principauté d'Orange Rouge - Everybody's favorite Cotes du Rhone alike is available both in 750ml and 5L BIBs!
2006 Cotes du Rhone Rouge "Jean-Baptiste Rigot" 5L BIB
2005 Cotes du Rhone Rouge "Prestige des Garrigues"
2007 Grenache Grape Juice

DOMAINE MARTIN - multiple gold medals yearly from Eric Martin!
2007 VDP Vaucluse Rouge
2005 Côtes du Rhône Villages Rouge Plan de Dieu
2005 Côtes du Rhône Villages Rouge Cairanne
2006 Côtes du Rhône Villages Rouge Rasteau

DOMAINE LA ROCALIERE Severine Lemoine is a talented young (<30) winemaker who has taken dad's journeyman style to a new level of elegance
2007 Lirac Blanc
2007 Tavel
2005 Lirac Rouge

NEW Arrivals - "June"

I put quotes around "June" because we are once again victims to the labor union commies in France. Longshoremen in all French ports have been on strike since late April. This container is being forced to leave from a non-French port, and the closest available port while containers pile up even in Antwerp is Rotterdam. Vessels from R'dam only go as far as Oakland on the west coast, and this container could very well spend a couple of weeks there, waiting for its transport to be "arranged." While workers in America can only dream of the cradle to grave benefits and union power enjoyed by their French counterparts, we will have to content ourselves with supplying another group of superb French wines for the thirsty masses!


ETIENNE BOILEAU
I met Etienne Boileau in February and we tasted a number of incredible wines. Here is what's coming:
2007 Chablis
2006 Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons
2006 Chablis 1er Cru Montmains
2006 Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu
2006 Chablis Grand Cru Bougros

CLAUDE NOUVEAU
2005 Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune Rouge
Santenay Rouge "Les Charmes Dessus"
Santenay Rouge 1er Cru "Grand Clos Rousseau"

CH. PEYBONHOMME DES TOURS
2005 Premières Côtes de Blaye Rouge "Classique" ECOCERT

CH. LE GROLET
2005 Côtes de Bourg "Classique" Biodynamic "Demeter"

CLOS DADY
For the same price as negoce swill, the Tour delivers! The Dady is really the real deal.
2006 Sauternes, Ch. La Tour des Remparts 375ml
2006 Sauternes, Clos Dady 375ml

DOMAINE DE MENARD
Bold, intense Gascon white has it all going on - at 11.5% alcohol!
2007 VDP Gascogne Blanc Colombard/Sauvignon Blanc

CH. LES BERTRANDS
2005 Premières Côtes de Blaye Rouge "Tradition"
2005 Premières Côtes de Blaye Rouge "Prestige"

DOMAINE DE MONTINE
2007 Coteaux du Tricastin Blanc "Gourmandise"
2007 Coteaux du Tricastin Rose "Gourmandise"
2006 Coteaux du Tricastin Rouge "Gourmandise"
2006 Coteaux du Tricastin Rouge "Séduction"

DOMAINE LA FOURMENTE
2007 CDRV Visan Blanc
2006 CDRV Visan Rouge "Grand Gibard"
Essence Lavandin 50ml

COSTIERES ET SOLEIL
2007 Costières de Nîmes Blanc, Domaine du Prince
2006 Costières de Nîmes Rouge, Domaine du Prince

TBC

Paul Lapandéry et Fils

UPDATE: On a whim I opened a mag of 1980 that was a slight leaker (probably due to a high fill as it was very high in the neck) and it was absolutely drop-dead gorgeous. I actually preferred it to the the 1990 that we tried here earlier! Show me any gamay based wine, or even a Burgundy from this admittedly awful vintage that has aged as gracefully, as effortlessly as this and I will eat my hat! WOW!!!


There was a trade tasting here at MILLESIME last Monday and one of the highlights in terms of quality, rarity, eccentricy, etc. were 2 wines from Domaine Paul Lapandéry. My experience with this domaine goes back to the early nineties when I met them at the Salon de l'agriculture de Paris to pick up some homemade saucissons they had under the counter for my boss. I had tasted current vintages in bottle but at the Salon was privileged to taste several vintages from the 70s from magnum and was simply amazed by the exquisite longevity achieved by these medium bodied high toned wines, all with a whopping 12% alcohol!

A lowly AOVDQS then, Paul Lapandéry was the driving force behind AOC status for Côte Roannaise. The wine, known as "La Rousselière" was then a blend of about 90% Gamay and 10% Pinot Noir. His ungrateful neighbors possessed no Pinot vines, let alone venerable ones like Lapandéry, and proceeded to conspire with the INAO to get them to declare the AOC Côte Roannaise to be 100% Gamay. He lobbied also unsuccessfully to have his "La Rousselière" classified as an AOC unto itself like Chateau Grillet, as the situation of the vineyard and the granitic terroir were themselves unique, but to no avail. Lapandéry was forced to either declassify to "Vin de Table" or discontinue the blending, calling the Gamay AOC Côte Roannaise, and the Pinot Noir Vin de Pays d'Urfé... When Paul died soon after, his son Francisque took over the domaine and in spite of his education at the Lycée Viticole de Beaune, has chosen to use the same ancestral methods, with superb results in the bottle. The geographic situation of the vineyard protects it naturally from fogs and all manner of extreme weather. Rot and mildew are therefore unknown and no treatments are necessary. Everything has to be done entirely by hand due to the vineyard's steepness (72 degrees in places) as well as the fact the the family uses the spaces between the vines for all manner of food crops for their consumption! As an additional particularity, the wines have always been destemmed. The wines are vinified in concrete and aged in venerable old barrels for 12-18 months and they really, truly and uncannily improve in bottle.

The happy ending to this sad tale is that the truth of the matter is that the ancient granite Gamay was always the secret to the character and longevity of this wine and not the Pinot Noir anyway! Don't get me wrong, the monocépage Pinot Noir is really a superb and complete example, at a price that really is a joke give the state of the $. The 2005 Gamay displays the same 'kirschy' fruit and finesse as the wines from the 70s! 'Purists' or nostalgists such as myself were delighted to see the continuity of the 2005 and the 1990 from magnum that we tasted on Monday. More than simply 'alive' after 18 years, the 1990 was easily the most interesting wine of the tasting... In a world of rotofermented flash-cooked brutally tannic "creature wines", these 12% alcohol examples of exquisite finesse and effortless longevity are indeed an antidote. While supplies last, we have the following wines available:

750ML:
2005 Côte Roannaise "La Rousselière"
2005 VDP d'Urfé Pinot Noir

MAGNUM:
2005 Côte Roannaise "La Rousselière"
1998 Côte Roannaise "La Rousselière"
1996 Côte Roannaise AOVDQS "La Rousselière"
1990 Côte Roannaise AOVDQS "La Rousselière"
1980 Côte Roannaise AOVDQS "La Rousselière"

Vinisud

Vinisud was awesome this year - tons of spectacular wineries all looking for distribution and a real look at the class system: Here is Chapoutier's 'booth':


more flash:


and the here's sonebody's bright (and expensive) idea for marketing to the anglo-saxons:
Just thinking of the paycheck somebody received for this effort is beyond galling. Somebody should remind these fools that the only chance they have is to create something authentic, not a contrived travesty such as this. the good news is that just past this atrocity to the left was the group "Vins Femmes Rhône" where wines of a very different sort were offered to the world's buyers.

The good news really is that beyond all the glitz, there are lots of producers making authentic, superb wines and MILLESIME has ordered a number of them - coming soon!

Overblown, overdone!

Just got back from a week and a half in France, spent bludgeoning my palate so that you hopefully won't have to. No, my teeth don't usually look like that! Somebody needs to do a study on this, but I think excessive consumption of over-extracted, excessively tannic wines is probably not that great for the health - really 'too much of a good thing'. When you are tasting 100s of these things every day, there are some strange side effects that are worth noting. The first few do a good job of stripping the protective mucus from the tissues, the subsequent dozens are absorbed all the more. The cocktail of chemical compounds plus the OD of tannins leaves one not drunk, but rather "toxed" and it makes it hard to get to sleep.
ICK!

TBC

January Arrivals

Our latest container from France arrived at our warehouse yesterday, and there are all kinds of goodies for amateurs

2008?

My recent trip to the Salon des Vignerons Independants was an eye-opener in many, many ways. Interesting on one level to experience the social-politico divide in France, but more importantly as a glimpse into who will survive in 2008. It is not news to anyone that the dollar is tanking, with a long way left to fall. Once the 1.50 barrier is crossed, there really is absolutely nothing to stop it before we are at 1.60 or even a number I have heard bandied about: €1=$1.75! When that happens, I predict that there will be a serious readjustment, if not a rude awakening in the market.

It's going to be more than difficult for those name-brand "national importers" to get away with with what they've been getting away with for so many years. What may have been the 'best' in the past is at the very least no longer the best deal. Maybe that's the kind of game you can play with a $1.20 Euro but those days are over. Don't get me wrong, I prefer to have durable relationships with my suppliers, but when they raise the prices excessively, reduce allocations, and produce wines that are inferior and overpriced compared to the new guy down the street who has something to prove - well it's hard to be too sentimental under such conditions. European producers have understood that they need to compete on several levels, not just one, and that they are competing against the whole world now.
The scene is a lot more fluid nowadays and things move a lot faster. It is simply no longer sufficient in the wine business to rest on your laurels, because those laurels are changing hands yearly. Every year or so it seems old and inflexible growers are dying off and being replaced by young people who literally revitalize the domaines - some of France's biggest star vignerons and vigneronnes are only in their 20s. In other cases the kids, uninterested, are happy to sell to outsiders who often bring new ideas and an obsession with quality to bear on production.
TBC

Salon de Paris

Braved the latest and possibly last public transit strikes to attend the Salon des Vignerons Independants de France (ex Caves Particulieres), a show I'd not attended for some years. Relations were strengthened, and discoveries were made. It was nice being back in France, apres tout. Having 1200 growers from all corners of France under one roof including some of the biggest names is instructive to say the least. You can really get a good idea of vintages (2006s are better than expected) but more importantly a better idea of value when you can compare the pricing on the spot. Attendance on Thursday and Friday was way down from previous years due to the transport strikes so it was easier to keep moving and sample the maximum of wines than it would have been. It was nice to see that there are still plenty of surprises and discoveries to be made out there. The atmosphere is quite different from professionals only trade shows. It's a lot more crowded and especially on the weekends large numbers of 'tasters' get their money's worth. Invitations are sent in huge numbers by the growers to those on their mailing lists but even if you don't have an invitation it's only 6€ to get in and get the glass that enables you to consume vast quantities of Champagnes, still wines, and brandies. One of the days I rode the Metro almost the whole way with a group of 5 Italian guys who all had invitations. I saw them again numerous times inside the fair over the course of the day, and it was pretty obvious what they were there to do. While spit buckets (crachoirs) are provided, they were rarely used. The big plus with a non-professional show though is that you can just thrust your glass forward and point at the bottle and say 'some of that please," and just keep moving if it's a no, without having to give your life story. Just smile and say "Merci" as you leave.

A couple of days I tasted with one of America's leading retailers and we both remarked the persistence of a phenomenon that we call the Qvée which is Cuvée with a thick Jersey accent. In the 90s I worked for a Broker out of France who even then lamented these over-ripe, over-extracted, over-oaked creature wines that many growers insist on making against all reason.
Once I asked him if he wanted samples of some grower's Qvée and his response was as economical as it was unequivocal: "F*ck Qvées - they're bullsh*t." Anyway, my colleague and I had a laugh over the story, and found that those words are every bit as relevant today. What makes French wines so great is the diversity, right? Anyway, these stupid wines - already expensive - are now ridiculously so and cannot out-Australia Australia in any event.

It was very interesting to taste a number of wines that are traded by 'national' importers (I have another name for them but I am trying to be polite). Ample proofs that the wine scene is one that is constantly evolving, and what may have been the best 5-15 years ago isn't necessarily still the best... more on that in a later rant.




Serious teeth staining after a long day (10-7) of Salon-ing! The good news is that it does come off!

Alcoholidays

It's that time of year, the Alcoholidays are upon us! MILLESIME is fully equipped to provide for your sparkling wine needs. Some old favorites vie with new additions for your attention. Even with the dollar in the tank, our philosophy of direct-importation gives us all something to celebrate as MILLESIME will always have a better price than those passing through multiple distribution channels.

CAVAS HILL

This artisanal House in Moja, Penedes produces rich, toasty and elegant Cavas that are incredible values! If they were French they would probably cost double.
N/V Reserva Oro Brut Nature
N/V Brut Rosado
2004 Reserva Artesania Brut de Brut


CLOS CHATEAU GAILLARD (Biodynamic!)
These amazing biodynamic Loire Sparklers simply crush all competitors! Millésime USA Exclusive.
N/V Touraine Effervescent Blanc “Charlette Voyant”
N/V Touraine Effervescent Rosé “Charlette Voyant”


CHAMPAGNE BARON-FUENTE
This small négoce House in the Aisne is a regular in the Winners’ Circles. Ridiculously good values.
N/V Grande Reserve Extra Brut (3g/l dosage)
N/V Grande Reserve Brut 12/375ml
N/V Brut Rosé Dolorès
2000 Vintage Brut “Grand Millesime”


CHAMPAGNE DUMENIL
Duménil is the best value in Montagne de Reims grower champagne that I’ve seen in years. ! Millésime USA Exclusive.
N/V Brut Premier Cru
N/V Brut Rosé
2000 Vintage Brut